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Nantucket, 9-18-11

I spent the weekend on Nantucket, my first trip to that island in at least forty years. Despite having planned meticulously, down to every detail - you've heard the expression, "Man plans, God laughs" - the plan to drive onto the 9:15 ferry was thwarted by a broken-down M/V Eagle (ACK!), necessitating my having to unload and reload all my gear - including guitar, sound system, mic stand, guitar stand, music stand, cameras - out of my car and onto the freight dolly for the fast ferry, Iyannough; then lugging the whole kit and caboodle three blocks (up hill) to my hotel room.

I had a little time on Sunday morning to grab a few quick impressions of the Island. Given the richness of all that I saw, I feel as though I have returned with a rather paltry offering.

Nantucket reminds me of Edgartown, but on steroids: more stores, smaller, narrower, and windier streets - more of them, and most of them one-way, and paved with cobblestones. The harbor is much bigger and more complex, with a maze of piers and marinas. And while Nantucket's downtown is jam-packed with every manner of shop - some identical to Edgartown's, for example, The Black Dog, and Summer Shades - the out-lying areas were rather desolate. And because Nantucket is one town, compared with the Vineyard's six, there is a stronger sense of community than there is on the Vineyard. Except for the pervasive feeling of claustrophobia that descended upon me the moment I stepped off the ferry and didn't let up until my tires hit the pavement in Hyannis, I enjoyed Nantucket - a fine town, a beautiful island (but how odd to overhear someone say to a friend, "See you around the island." I thought, "This isn't the island, The Vineyard is the island."). And it was inevitable, I suppose - while walking around the marina I ran into fellow Vineyarder, Edgartonian Karen Jardin, who had sailed over for the weekend with friends.
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  • USCG Station Lighthouse at Brant Point, at the entrance to the harbor.

    USCG Station Lighthouse at Brant Point, at the entrance to the harbor.

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  • Approaching Nantucket Town.

    Approaching Nantucket Town.

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  • The Jared Coffin House, my overnight quarters, compliments of the Bar Mitzvah boy's family.

    The Jared Coffin House, my overnight quarters, compliments of the Bar Mitzvah boy's family.

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  • Main Street, Sunday morning.

    Main Street, Sunday morning.

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  • Main Street

    Main Street

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  • The westerly side of the harbor, with the USCG station on the far right.

    The westerly side of the harbor, with the USCG station on the far right.

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  • These cobblestones have the effect of governing the speed of the traffic. Believe me, you do not want to drive fast over these stones - not if you want to keep your teeth. The town is also filled with a constant "pucketa-pucketa-pucketa" sound, as traffic passes by.

    These cobblestones have the effect of governing the speed of the traffic. Believe me, you do not want to drive fast over these stones - not if you want to keep your teeth. The town is also filled with a constant "pucketa-pucketa-pucketa" sound, as traffic passes by.

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  • The walk to the Brant Point Lighthouse was just a little farther from Main Street than Edgartown Lighthouse is from Edgartown's Main Street.

    The walk to the Brant Point Lighthouse was just a little farther from Main Street than Edgartown Lighthouse is from Edgartown's Main Street.

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  • I found this hilly, wind-swept cemetery on my drive out to Cisco Beach.

    I found this hilly, wind-swept cemetery on my drive out to Cisco Beach.

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  • Of course, I had to check the surf. Cisco Beach is a 10-minute drive from downtown Nantucket. I met a lone surfer, on his way home, who told me that this was a pretty good break, but that today was lousy. I can see that this place has potential.

    Of course, I had to check the surf. Cisco Beach is a 10-minute drive from downtown Nantucket. I met a lone surfer, on his way home, who told me that this was a pretty good break, but that today was lousy. I can see that this place has potential.

    Nantucketsurfterns2305

  • Piping plovers, called so, apparently, because of the way they dart into and at the edge of the breaking wave, "piping' their beaks rapidly into and out of the sand, the water from the wave loosening the sand and making their search for small sand bugs all the easier. <br />
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These small sea birds are endangered on the Vineyard, a single piping plover's nest being known to close an entire beach for weeks, much to the dismay of the fishermen and beachgoers.

    Piping plovers, called so, apparently, because of the way they dart into and at the edge of the breaking wave, "piping' their beaks rapidly into and out of the sand, the water from the wave loosening the sand and making their search for small sand bugs all the easier.

    These small sea birds are endangered on the Vineyard, a single piping plover's nest being known to close an entire beach for weeks, much to the dismay of the fishermen and beachgoers.

    Nantucketsurfterns2310

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